How to Create an Epoxy Marble Effect Countertop

Epoxy makes a mess, so cover your work surface with plastic sheeting to protect it.

Put the gloves on and lay out your materials so they're within reach and you don't have to waste time searching for them after you've mixed the epoxy.

Level your countertop surface.

Sand the wooden top lightly with 80-220 grit sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere properly (depending on the type of surface you have).

Remove sanding residue by wiping the surface with a clean rag dampened with acetone or isopropyl alcohol.

What is a seal coat and why is it important? A seal coat is a thin layer of mixed epoxy used to seal porous surfaces. This important step prevents air in the wood from off-gassing and creating air bubbles after you've poured a flood coat of epoxy over it.

Which white pigment do I use for the seal coat? Good question! The TotalBoat Marble Effect Kit contains a white liquid opaque pigment, which is used for the seal coat and flood coat of mixed epoxy resin, before marbling pigments are added. The white mica powder pigment can be used to add a little extra sparkle to the flood coat, if desired.

Dispense the resin and hardener components: Combine TotalBoat TableTop Epoxy at a 1:1 ratio of 1 part resin (Part A) to 1 part hardener (Part B), by volume, in a clean plastic mixing cup (included in the kit).

Use the 2-cup mixing method to combine thoroughly: The secret to getting great results is to make sure both components are completely mixed before adding any pigment. Use a wooden mixing stick to stir gently for 2-3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup. Transfer to a second mixing cup and stir again for another 2-3 minutes.

Add liquid white opaque pigment (see third image) to the mixed epoxy, stirring in a few drops at a time, until the mixed epoxy becomes a solid white color.

Tinting Note: The amount of liquid white opaque pigment to add is not exact — it will depend on the volume of mixed epoxy and your preference for how 'solid', or opaque (not see-through), the solid white color should be. Start with a small amount of pigment, and increase drop by drop until you reach the desired opacity.

Pour a thin seal coat of white mixed epoxy onto the surface at a depth of 1/16". Use a plastic epoxy spreader to distribute the epoxy until the entire surface is a uniform thickness.

Don't worry about making the entire surface solid white; if any dark white or gray spots bleed through, these will improve the marbling effect.

Wait for the epoxy seal coat to set up and be tack-free before applying your flood coat. During this time, the epoxy will begin to set up, and the surface will be somewhat hard, but tacky (sticky).

If you wait for the surface to harden completely, don't worry. Before continuing, you will need to sand the surface lightly with 220-grit sandpaper and remove sanding residue by wiping with a clean, lint-free rag dampened with acetone or isopropyl alcohol. Sanding the cured surface in this manner enables the next coat of epoxy to adhere properly.

Pour the white mixed epoxy across the surface in an 'S' shape.

Use a clean plastic spreader to distribute the epoxy until it covers the top and surfaces at a uniform depth of about 1/8".

After spreading and leveling the white epoxy flood coat, use your small cup of light gray resin to start the marbling effect.

Drizzle lines of the light gray epoxy in random locations on the top and down the sides of the white epoxy surface. It's best to keep the lines going in a similar direction to mimic marble's natural lines.

Use a small, clean wooden stir stick to help you control the light gray line of epoxy as you apply it.

Using your gloved fingertips or a dry chip brush, tap gently on the light gray resin streaks to create a feathering effect, as shown here.

With the heat gun on its lowest setting, hold it about 2-3 inches from the surface, and gently wave it back and forth quickly, aiming the stream of hot air at the light gray feathered areas to loosen up the lines a little bit and pop any small air bubbles on the surface.

Do not hold the heat gun in one spot for very long or you'll scorch and discolor the surface, spoiling the marbling effect. Instead, be sure to keep it moving, and stay 2-3 inches above the surface.

Continue creating the marbling effect by adding dark gray 'veins'. Use a clean wooden stir stick to apply thin lines of the dark gray mixed epoxy on the surface, similar to the way you applied gray epoxy in the previous step.

The best place to add the dark gray veins is on top of, or close to, the light gray feathered areas.

To prevent the light gray and dark gray epoxy from running together, pour a small amount of the clear, mixed epoxy where you intend to make the dark gray vein, then apply the dark gray vein on top of the clear epoxy. If you want the dark gray and light gray to blend, do not add clear mixed epoxy before adding the dark gray vein.

You may wish to add more white over dark areas, or add more light gray feathering and dark gray veins.

Use the heat gun to blend in any epoxy you add.

Continue until you're satisfied with the marbling effect.

At this point, you can either allow the epoxy to cure completely, then go to Step 13, where you'll remove any epoxy bumps that formed underneath the bottom edge. Or, you can allow the epoxy to cure until it's tack-free then go to Step 12 and apply an optional clear coat for added shine, durability, and depth.

Place your items on the beautiful new top, then show it off!

Do not place items hotter than 125°F on the cured surface, or it will discolor and become distorted.

What is epoxy sensitization? Ever hear of someone getting a skin rash after using epoxy? A rash is one form of sensitization — it's the process where your body gets more and more sensitive to epoxy products. Rashes are a common sign, but eyes, nose, throat, & lungs can also be affected. Everyone reacts differently, so proper PPE is critical.

Before you start creating your epoxy marble effect countertop, we recommend the following:

Take a look at the SDS (safety data sheets) for each product, paying special attention to the safety information in Section 8: Exposure Controls/Personal Protection.

Gather the proper PPE (personal protective equipment) recommended by the manufacturers, such as suitable gloves, and proper protection for skin, lungs, eyes, and clothing.

Make sure your work area is well ventilated.